PERMU is a contemporary menswear brand dedicated to finding the connection between garment, body and nature. PERMU comes from the abbreviation of the word «Permutation». The relationship between the clothes wrapped around the body can express different emotions and states, it is the brand true language and believes in the close interaction and connection of both.
PERMU 2024 SS collection is called Natural Skin. In Guy Debord’s theory, people in the spectacle construct themselves according to the image, appearance and temperament of celebrities. Media celebrities are icons and role models, emulated and worshipped by spectacle dreamers. In modern urban environments where nature is lacking, human beings have an extremely low perception of authenticity. Al of life manifests itself as a mass of spectacles, in short an extreme pursuit of appearances. Their engagement with social reality and the brand’s understanding of it is modified and even dictated by the spectacle presented.
However, PERMU believe that the definition of beauty does not exist in the most immediate and dominant features of the visual appearance, but rather in the ability to accept oneself and to have the ability to customise. To have a special texture and skin like insects and plants, to show the inner «reality» with colours. Human skin can be understood as the physical interface between the us and our environment, which is special and not to be imitated. The logic of life’s growth is beautifully curved, like a vine growing in circles or a gene twisting in a spiral. They want to sculpt the contours of life’s curves and decorate the heart with customised textures that will reshape the human perception of aesthetics.
The brand’s basic pattern cutting design logic has always been a continuous strip cut on the front and back of the body. The new season is a good continuation of the design logic and adopts the curved shape as a new basic element.
They have tried to use all-natural pigment from whole plants as our basic support, which will fit perfectly with the brand’s own admiration for nature and respect for life. Working with Kering, they have learnt a lot about the potential and properties of bio-pigment. The team used natural and recycled materials and bio-pigment made from wood to design and it takes almost a month to make each garment using manual processes such as dyeing. In addition to this, virtual vision has also become a new part of development, carrying the conceptual output of the new season, with the whole team work with «AMORPHOUS STUDIO» using 3D modelling, animation and so on to make some virtual wearable and 3D printed botanical.
PERMU takes traditional tailoring as the core, combined with the excavation of customised craftsmanship elements, combining men’s fashion patterns with various contemporary artistic expressions, to create a refined, elegant and powerful brand image. Each product of PERMU is carefully polished through multiple customisation processes, engraving delicacy and craftsmanship into the brand’s DNA. In this fast-paced era, the traces of time are left in every stitch. They hope to create a minimalist, deconstructed world.
In 2023 PERMU was invited to participate in exhibition at Pitti Uomo in Florence two times, and the designer Heyun Pan was selected by Kering as one of the 10 designers to participate in the sustainable capsule project. In this June, PERMU was included in the London Fashion East show as one of 5 emerging designers.